Tools for the job- clean, soft brushes of different sizes. |
Here's the process:
1. Wipe down the tile with a clean damp sponge to remove dust and dirt.
2. Use the green wax solution to paint the bottom edges. Dab it on to coat thouroghly. This wax prevents the glaze from reaching the bottom edge of the tile. It burns off in the kiln, leaving a neat edge to your glaze.
3. Use an ENGOBE to write the name of the glaze on the bottom of the test tile. Engobes are a stained clay mixture and are considered an UNDERGLAZE. It is normally used on GREENWARE, or leather hard clay BEFORE the first firing.
• STIR the engobe before and while you are painting with it. You can dab it on with a small, soft paintbrush.
GLAZE
Things to know about glazes:
• GLAZES Do not look the same before firing as they do after firing!!! You must rely on a chart or test tile.
• GLAZES melt and "slip" a bit during the firing, so they may move outside the "lines". That's part of the process..... go with it.
• GLAZE fires at cone 5 (2130º+), a much higher temperature than the "bisque" firing. That high heat transforms (melts) the silica in the glaze to glass. Colorants like iron oxide, or copper carbonate create color in the glaze. You can buy premixed glazes, or even mix your own "recipe" of materials.
1. Stir stir and stir some more until the glaze is smooth and even....
A just-opened jar of glaze. It's thick and chunky! |
Stirring with a brush handle 'till your wrist aches! |
Completed stirring- see how it coated the end of the brush?- it's very opaque. |
2. Start applying the glaze. Use a soft brush and DAB on the glaze to coat evenly. Two, even coats are recommended. The glaze should be about a "fingernail" thickness.
DO NOT glaze the bottom of your tile, as it will fuse your work onto the kin shelf..
3. Check that you have coated the surface well, push the glaze into cracks and holes too. Any exposed spots of raw clay will stand out as bad craftsmanship.
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